1st - 11th June 2024


Hanoi

Hanoi - a city where ancient traditions and modern rhythms coexist in a way I've never seen before. The Old Quarter buzzes with an energy I've never experienced before, its narrow streets alive with the clatter of motorbikes, the calls of street vendors and the clinking of coffee cups (side note: Vietnamese coffee is a must if you haven't tried it already. I think I drank it by the gallon). Yet, between the late nights and early mornings at Hoan Kiem Lake, the city’s pulse slows. You have an amount to catch your breath, able to hear the quiet whirrs of bicycles or distant chatter amongst locals. This is where Hanoi reveals its quieter side, a peaceful pause before the day’s whirlwind begins.

Lan Ha bay

Our journey then led to Lan Ha Bay, a hidden gem often overshadowed by its more famous neighbour, Ha Long Bay. Instead of the serene blue waters the postcards had promised, we were met with stormy skies and rain-lashed seas. The usual tranquility of the bay was replaced by the fierce nature we often forget picture-perfect places like this can experience. The limestone karsts, usually mirrored in calm waters, loomed dramatically against the stormy backdrop. Despite the rain, or perhaps because of it, Lan Ha Bay took on a different kind of beauty—wild, untamed, and holding a different kind of atmosphere than that which you may normally find on a Pinterest board.

Ha Giang

Then came the Ha Giang Loop—a three-day motorbiking adventure that took us deep into the wild heart of Northern Vietnam. The journey was as exhilarating as it was breathtaking, with each bend in the road opening up to new vistas: steep, mist-covered mountains, lush green valleys, and winding rivers that glittered in the sunlight (on day one that is, until the heavens opened on us for the remainder of the trip). The landscapes, often softened by the rain, reminded me of home in Scotland. The mist rolling over the peaks and the steady drizzle that accompanied parts of the ride brought a familiar comfort, as if the rugged beauty of the Highlands had found its reflection in Vietnam. Even though zipping through some of the sketchiest roads I've ever travelled down was extremely exciting, what truly defined this experience were the people. In every remote village, we were welcomed like old friends, offered hospitality, and invited to share meals. Their warmth, smiles and their resilience added a depth to the journey that the landscapes alone could not. The Ha Giang Loop (whilst extremely soggy), was more than just an 'epic biking adventure'. It was a peek into the lives of those whose families have lived there for generations, and whom I will always remember fondly (especially little 5 year old Luna, who I shared pizza and many, many laughs with).

Northern Vietnam is a land of contrasts—of bustling cities and remote mountain roads, of serene waters and stormy seas. It’s a place where every experience is heightened, where the landscapes are as varied as the weather, and where the warmth of its people leaves a lasting impression. Whilst Vietnam was one I knew I wanted to tick off my bucket list, I didn't expect to find a place where the land and the people leave such a mark on your soul.